Where to get a comfort food fix in the Foothills

LIKE NEW ENGLAND OR THE PACIFIC Northwest, the Sierra Foothills and its surroundings is an ideal place for comfort food cooking. Some of our favorite comfort-food recipes come from dog-eared James Beard
cookbooks or newer ones from chefs such as Guy Fieri of Northern California, whose “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives” is a popular show on the Food Network.

The recession also has created a resur- gence in home-style cooking because it’s less expensive. Turning to comfort food in “uncomfortable times” is nothing new: Surveys showed that more Americans turned
to comfort food post 9/11.

But you don’t need to stay at home to get a good home-cooked meal. Foothill stalwarts have been dishing up home-style comfort food for years.

In historic downtown Grass Valley, Tofanelli’s Italian meat loaf tower is a testament to well-prepared comfort food, featuring homemade meatloaf and mashed potatoes piled high atop one another.

Tofanelli’s, in a Gold Rush-era building dating back to 1859, also offers 101 omelets.

“We have tried to create the most popular omelets, but we may have missed a few,” the menu reads.

“Please feel free to create your own—more than 514 billion variations are available.”

Across the street in Grass Valley, Cirino’s at Main Street offers comfort food with a Mediterranean flair, including lamb shanks served over polenta and garnished with steamed artichokes.

In neighboring Nevada City, Lefty’s Grill, named after its two left-handed chef-owners, dishes up comfort food from scratch, including grilled flat-bread pizzas.

Burgers—known as the “blue jeans” of comfort food—also are a house speciality, including one topped with gorgonzola cheese and house-made onion jam.

The “Monkey Cat Burger” at Monkey Cat in Auburn also is a favorite, a fat and juicy burger with grilled onions on top.

Burger Me, a relative newcomer in Truckee, serves fresh, organic burgers as well as
an Ahi burger.

Tofanelli’s Sliders are three Angus burgers on mini buns with jack cheese, grilled
onions and red pepper aioli.

In Nevada City, the burgers at Ike’s Quarter Cafe are famous. They are served with organic beef on homemade buns.

The Voodoo Burger is topped with carmelized onions, Andouille sausage and creole remoulade. Nothing’s more comforting than a bowl of Ike’s gumbo or Jambalaya.

Homemade biscuits and gravy are served for breakfast.

The downturn has led to a slew of new restaurants throughout the area that feature simple, less-costly menu items—but with a sophisticated twist.

In Truckee, Piper’s Rotisserie has reopened, offering fresh carved rotisseried meats, sandwiches and house-made gelato—a town favorite. You can watch the meats roast on the rotisserie.

In Grass Valley, Goomba’s Italian Family Restaurant opened with a pizza oven imported straight from Italy. Goomba’s specializes in a healthier thin-crust pizza. Drooling Dog BBQ reopened in Auburn
after moving down the hill from Colfax, with specialities including smoked ribs and chicken. Its menu also includes “Puttin’ on the Dog,“ a sandwich of brisket, pulled pork and topped with a hot link.

If you’re hankering for a deli-style sandwich, try Tofanelli’s “Reuben, Reuben,” the triple-decker Corned Beef Club or one of Cirino’s “panino” sandwiches.

At Cirino’s, our favorites include a Juniper-brined Pork Rostini sandwich and a tri-tip sandwich served on a French roll with creamy horseradish sauce, lettuce tomato and red onion.

As Beard put it: “Too few people understand a really good sandwich.”

Where To Get A Comfort Food Fix:

Tofanelli’s
302 Main St., Grass Valley
(530) 272-1468

Cirino’s
at Main Street
213 W. Main St., Grass Valley
(530) 477-6000

Goomba’s Italian Family Restaurant
450 Colfax Ave.,
Grass Valley
(530) 273-2330

Ike’s Quarter Cafe
401 Commercial St.
Nevada City
(530) 265-6138

Lefty’s Grill
221 Broad St.
Nevada City
(530) 265-5838

Piper’s Rotisserie
10068 Donner Pass Rd.
Truckee
(530) 582-2256

Drooling Dog BBQ
150 A Harrison Ave.
Auburn
(530) 886-8812

Monkey Cat
805 Lincoln Way, Auburn
(530) 888-8492